Versace launches camo-glam looks for next summer
Light and transparent fabrics - from organza to lace to netting - dominated the shows Friday at Milan Fashion Week.
Milan womenswear designers experimented with all manner of sheer fabrics, creating decidedly feminine looks for next spring and summer that new materials gave a contemporary modern flair. Here are some highlights from Friday's shows:
VERSACE
Donatella Versace created spectacular camo-glam looks for next summer, deploying military accents and materials with flair and precision.
Versace's eye-catching animal prints mimicked camouflage, and with acid yellow, green and purple accents, they are best deployed in the urban jungle.
From the mishmash patterns in purple, green and gray, Versace created a collection that ranged from leather mini dresses and chiffon evening wear with a long trailing train. Others were tied over one shoulder and at the hemline for drama.
The collection also featured more button-down looks, such as the belted military jackets in sand and olive green as mini dresses and the jacket-short combos with a bandeau top. Accompanying star necklaces hint at rank.
Once again, Versace's placement of the Medusa logo is more restrained than in the past, branding military belt-buckles and the straps of platform heels like brass buttons. A utilitary jacket, which Versace dubbed the new daywear essential, had Versace scrawled down one arm - discreet placement in the Versace world considering the flurry of animal prints. Matching backpacks finished the look.
"This is a collection for the way women live their lives today, mixing tailoring with sportswear and effortless glamour," Versace said in show notes.
EMPORIO ARMANI
Giorgio Armani gave the crowd an opening and a closing wink during his Emporio Armani show, with a pink cropped T-shirt featuring a graphic emoticon smiley face with an "x'' for one eye.
Perhaps it was his way of signaling a shift to the fashion crowd.
The designer said in his notes he was done with the "classic interplay of masculine and feminine" and that the collection was moving toward "a subtle yet determined form of grace." It's a lofty ambition, even for the pillar of Milan fashion celebrating 40 years in the business, and in keeping there was a lot new on the runway.
The looks were pretty, feminine and light, evoking movement, thanks both to the textiles, featuring sheer organza, a Milan favorite this season, as well as the easy silhouette.
Tops, jackets and skirts were asymmetrically cut, projecting a sense of being on the go, while the new trouser fastened at the calf or ankle with leather straps, cinching up in the shorter version. He also amply deployed pleats and contrasted volumes in the silhouettes: for example, cigarette trousers with a boyfriend-cut duster coat.
The colors were mostly natural pastels - Armani favored a trinity of pink, blue and cinnamon - anchored by urban gray.
Parsimonious with accents, those he did add were inspired by the nature: flower, petal and stem appliques. Many looks were finished with a scarf knotted at the neck.
Armani paired the looks mostly with flats, from transparent ballerinas to open-toe boots.
MARCO DE VINCENZO
Marco De Vincenzo struck a balance between his love of the female form and easy-to-wear volumes for his latest collection.
De Vincenzo, who enjoys the backing of French conglomerate LVHM, created light, feathery looks out of crepe georgette, his team painstakingly laser-cutting strips and sewing countless rows onto each pleated garment.
The technique, devised by his team, created dresses in a fading wash of sunset colors that seemed to whisper as they moved. Big voluminous coats had the visual impact of fur but were literally feather-light.
"I think there is lightness everywhere and for me it is a new challenge," De Vincenzo said backstage. "It's important, when something is three-dimensional and very hypnotic, to work without losing the lightness."
Those looks contrasted with body-conscious dresses, with bra-top netting bodices on a lacey form-fitting dress.
De Vincenzo said he wanted to give women both sexy and relaxed looks. "I understand that women today like to mix it up, and wear something sexy or not, depending on the weather or the day," he said.
GIAMBA
Giambattista Valli says his Giamba line's looks for next spring and summer are "post-pop."
The Giamba girl is both innocent and daring, caught between two worlds. She wears sheer white baby doll dresses over flashy red-white-and-blue sequined panties, chooses between floral appliques and lipstick prints, and wears sturdy black boots or pumps with zebra-striped ankle socks.
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"This is an intimate party of girls who have done everything together. No boys," Giamba said, adding that his inspirations were the party scenes of the 1970s and '90s.
The clothes projected energy, from the red-white-and-blue sequined mini with upward pointing lace to the neckline, Alice in Wonderland style, to mod gowns with '70s pop art prints or tiered granny-style with dainty built-in capes. But even there, on the cusp of innocence, the lacey bodice is transparent, leaving Valli to strategically place stars and hearts to conceal nipples.
Valli, who shows his couture line in Paris and launched his youth-charged second line last year in Milan, sees himself as "one of the designers with the most complicity for women, whatever the age."
Shoes included woven satiny flats and feathery lifts.
ETRO
Etro paid homage to the ballet in its latest collection, sending models down a wood-clad runway in a showroom decked out in mirrors to suggest a practice studio.
Etro, with its Bohemian flair, easily resisted the tutu, instead referencing the ballet world with a graceful plisse skirt falling at the knees, pairing a tiered print skirt with a dancer's wrap. Satin ribbons formed belts on lacy tops and chiffony dresses.
Designer Veronica Etro said it was a new challenge to work in lace and tulle.
"As a starting point, I was very much fascinated with elaborate turn-of-the-century details, such as fabrics like lace, tulle, ruching, scallops, ribbons, haberdashery," she said backstage.
Delicate florals dominated the brand's trademark prints this season, while the color palate was subdued. Shades of pink, taupe and apricot contrasted with deep blue and purple.
Sian Watson and Paola Masera contributed.
Tuesday, September 29, 2015
Friday, September 18, 2015
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Monday, September 7, 2015
If you have watched the Lifetime reality TV show Double Divas
If you have watched the Lifetime reality TV show Double Divas, then you already know Livi Rae Lingerie owners Molly Hopkins and Cynthia Decker. They are passionate about making women feel confident and sexy and their mission with Livi Rae Lingerie is to do just that. They continue to promote body acceptance and confidence while supporting a great cause with this event where there will be a fashion show that will include models of all shapes and sizes.
Proceeds from the event will benefit non-for-profit organization I Will Survive, Inc., which serves the metropolitan area of Georgia in an effort to increase breast cancer awareness through education as well as provide funding in lower income communities.
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Proceeds from the event will benefit non-for-profit organization I Will Survive, Inc., which serves the metropolitan area of Georgia in an effort to increase breast cancer awareness through education as well as provide funding in lower income communities.
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You wear white under white and black under black
a new London-based lingerie/hosiery business that opened online last week, is creating quite the splash with its answer: Four shades of lingerie and hosiery that range from a golden caramel to a deep brown with just a hint of rose.
Maybe even cooler? Founder Ade Hassan has keyed each to mainstream makeup lines’ foundation colors. So if you wear Mac’s NW47 or Bobbi Brown’s Warm Walnut, Nubian Skin’s Cinnamon is the shade for you. If you wear Bobbi Brown’s Golden or Bare Minerals in Warm Tan or Golden Tan, consider Caramel. (Your mileage may vary, of course. But it’s more help than we’ve seen anywhere else.) Other shades are Berry, the darkest, and Cafe au Lait, the lightest.
Charlotte’s Lashawnda Becoats calls the foundation-match idea “fantastic” – and the business overall “a really exciting thing.”
Becoats, recently named editor of Pride Magazine in Charlotte and a woman who’s written about fashion and lifestyle for years, says, “Most people probably don’t think about it.
“You wear white under white and black under black. But to have something and to not worry ‘Hey, can you see my underwear under this?’ would be fantastic ... Every woman of color can definitely relate.” (Yep: Hollywood’s Thandie Newton and Kerry Washington have both posted about the place, even before sales began: “am excited!” and “Awesome,” respectively.)
Joelle Purifoy, 23, a stylist, fashion designer and blogger ( thecolorsofjoelle.com) in Durham, agrees that this is a huge deal for women of color.
“I’m so ecstatic to see more inclusion for us in the apparel industry,” Purifoy said. “It’s companies like Nubian Skin and designers like Louboutin ... that are taking steps in the right direction.” (The shoe designer Louboutin last year released a shoe collection called The Nudes, which included 5 shades ranging from fair to dark to match a broader range of women’s skin tones.)
Purifoy, a recent graduate of N.C. State’s College of Textiles who also works at J.Crew, says her workaround for the lack of “nude” shades when wearing white blouses has been a black or gray bra – and gray, she says, is the way to go.
“Heather Grey is actually the best option for anyone to wear under white, as it reflects less light than white under light-colored shirts,” she said. “It practically blends right into your skin just like a nude colored undergarment would!”
Kierra Leggett, a Raleigh-based fashion blogger ( sophistikated1992.blogspot.com), also noted last year’s Louboutin line of nude pumps as an important turning point in fashion. “The ability to purchase ‘nude’ undergarments that actually match one’s skin tone should be the expectation, not the exception,” she said.
Leggett, another recent graduate of N.C. State, says the lack of true “nude” shades doesn’t keep her from wearing white.
“Despite the fact that the standard ‘nude’ is not a true nude on me, it is typically the color undergarment I wear beneath white,” Leggett said. “If I’m wearing something that is sheer, I typically put on a black camisole or slip to make it more opaque. ... The closest I’ve come to finding lingerie that really matches my skin tone is a brown Wacoal bra that I purchased earlier this summer.”
Nubian Skin prices
Prices range from about $50 to $60 for bras (which run 30B to 36DD/E, with more sizes promised) and $16 to $25 for briefs, etc. That’s not too far outside mainstream upscale lingerie prices – but shipping to the United States tacks on roughly $25.
Hassan told British website Black Ballad she had worked in investment banking and finance before launching this company, at age 30: “When wearing clothes, especially in a professional environment, a large proportion of women’s tops are sheer. When you are in that context you want to be taken seriously and not worrying if someone can see your black bra strap.”
Says Becoats: “We’ve (been) missing out on a whole market of women who have needs but who have taken for granted that they have had to fit into the status quo. When you create a market that allows those women to see themselves, they’re going to move toward that market.
“I’m going to look into it, so I can get out of wearing only black underwear!”
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Maybe even cooler? Founder Ade Hassan has keyed each to mainstream makeup lines’ foundation colors. So if you wear Mac’s NW47 or Bobbi Brown’s Warm Walnut, Nubian Skin’s Cinnamon is the shade for you. If you wear Bobbi Brown’s Golden or Bare Minerals in Warm Tan or Golden Tan, consider Caramel. (Your mileage may vary, of course. But it’s more help than we’ve seen anywhere else.) Other shades are Berry, the darkest, and Cafe au Lait, the lightest.
Charlotte’s Lashawnda Becoats calls the foundation-match idea “fantastic” – and the business overall “a really exciting thing.”
Becoats, recently named editor of Pride Magazine in Charlotte and a woman who’s written about fashion and lifestyle for years, says, “Most people probably don’t think about it.
“You wear white under white and black under black. But to have something and to not worry ‘Hey, can you see my underwear under this?’ would be fantastic ... Every woman of color can definitely relate.” (Yep: Hollywood’s Thandie Newton and Kerry Washington have both posted about the place, even before sales began: “am excited!” and “Awesome,” respectively.)
Joelle Purifoy, 23, a stylist, fashion designer and blogger ( thecolorsofjoelle.com) in Durham, agrees that this is a huge deal for women of color.
“I’m so ecstatic to see more inclusion for us in the apparel industry,” Purifoy said. “It’s companies like Nubian Skin and designers like Louboutin ... that are taking steps in the right direction.” (The shoe designer Louboutin last year released a shoe collection called The Nudes, which included 5 shades ranging from fair to dark to match a broader range of women’s skin tones.)
Purifoy, a recent graduate of N.C. State’s College of Textiles who also works at J.Crew, says her workaround for the lack of “nude” shades when wearing white blouses has been a black or gray bra – and gray, she says, is the way to go.
“Heather Grey is actually the best option for anyone to wear under white, as it reflects less light than white under light-colored shirts,” she said. “It practically blends right into your skin just like a nude colored undergarment would!”
Kierra Leggett, a Raleigh-based fashion blogger ( sophistikated1992.blogspot.com), also noted last year’s Louboutin line of nude pumps as an important turning point in fashion. “The ability to purchase ‘nude’ undergarments that actually match one’s skin tone should be the expectation, not the exception,” she said.
Leggett, another recent graduate of N.C. State, says the lack of true “nude” shades doesn’t keep her from wearing white.
“Despite the fact that the standard ‘nude’ is not a true nude on me, it is typically the color undergarment I wear beneath white,” Leggett said. “If I’m wearing something that is sheer, I typically put on a black camisole or slip to make it more opaque. ... The closest I’ve come to finding lingerie that really matches my skin tone is a brown Wacoal bra that I purchased earlier this summer.”
Nubian Skin prices
Prices range from about $50 to $60 for bras (which run 30B to 36DD/E, with more sizes promised) and $16 to $25 for briefs, etc. That’s not too far outside mainstream upscale lingerie prices – but shipping to the United States tacks on roughly $25.
Hassan told British website Black Ballad she had worked in investment banking and finance before launching this company, at age 30: “When wearing clothes, especially in a professional environment, a large proportion of women’s tops are sheer. When you are in that context you want to be taken seriously and not worrying if someone can see your black bra strap.”
Says Becoats: “We’ve (been) missing out on a whole market of women who have needs but who have taken for granted that they have had to fit into the status quo. When you create a market that allows those women to see themselves, they’re going to move toward that market.
“I’m going to look into it, so I can get out of wearing only black underwear!”
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